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projects:crazyflie:userguide:troubleshooting [2012-03-06 10:51] macke |
projects:crazyflie:userguide:troubleshooting [2021-06-24 16:53] kimberly |
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- | ====== | + | <WRAP center round important 60%> |
+ | This page has deprecated and will be archived. Please go to [[https:// | ||
+ | </ | ||
+ | ====== | ||
+ | ==== When I try to take off there seems to be no lift on one/or more motors? ==== | ||
+ | Most of the time this is either due to the fact that there' | ||
+ | If neither helps check that the [[projects: | ||
+ | ==== I have broken motors/ | ||
+ | There' | ||
- | ====== Troubleshooting ====== | + | ==== When I start the Crazyflie |
- | ==== When I try to connect to the quadcopter I get an error and the red LED is not blinking | + | {{: |
- | This is almost always due to a missmatch in radio channel. Make sure to have the same radio channel for the quadcopter | + | During the start-up all the mounted sensors run a self test. If any of these tests fail, the failure will cause the red LED to flash 5 times. It is possible |
- | ==== When I try to take off there seems to be no lift on one/or more motors | + | The picture shows the console tab with no errors but when you have an error it might say e.g //MPU6050: Self test acc Y [FAIL]. low: 0.300000, high: 0.949999, measured: 0.0.// This example means that the accelerometer Y axis didn't pass the self test and is probably defective. It is possible to get 5 blink error also if the Crazyflie is moved to much during the self test, so try putting it on a sable surface before you power it on. |
- | Most of the time this is either due to the fact that there's dirt (like hairs) stuck around | + | |
- | If neither helps check that the [[projects:crazyflie:mechanics:index|propeller | + | Another thing to try, if you get an accelerometer self test error with measured value 0.0, is to tap/bang it on the sides. E.g. use a table edge to tap/bang it against, and tap/bang the rounded corners of the PCB (where the LEDs are). This could in theory release the accelerometer lock-up. We have had several successful cases doing this and if you managed to fix it this way please let us know. |
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+ | If anything of the above didn't fix it you probably have a broken sensor and the sensor needs to be replaced. Contact [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== I broke on of the PCB arms. Is it repairable? | ||
+ | Yes but we have no ultimate way yet. As the PCB arm don't carry any electrical traces it is only the mechanics that needs to be fixed. We are looking into the possibility to make a custom 3D printable mount that could attach witch glue on the PCB arm part that is left. This would be the easiest but we are not there yet. | ||
+ | We have tested another method that works quite well. See below. | ||
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+ | When the PCB arm breaks it almost always break as in the picture. Since there is a bit of it left it can be used to fix it. | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
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+ | Here we have cut a piece of carbon fiber tube, inner diameter 2.7mm and outer diameter 4mm, to a length of ~12mm. Then we cut a slit ~4mm so that the tube can be pushed further in on the PCB. We used a dremmel to to this but other tools should also work. When the carbon piece is ready we glue it on with hot glue. An aluminium tube should also work well. Most RC shops should have this kind of stuff. | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
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+ | We fill the tube and glue the other piece in. Since it is hot glue you can use e.g. a candle or a lighter to heat it up when working with it so take your time to get it right. When done it should look something like the picture. Now cut the motor mount shorter. I cut it about 4.5mm shorter in the middle of the " | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
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+ | Then push the motor mount in and heat up the hot glue closest to it again so that it can be pushed all the way and glued at the same time. Then let it cool/cure while making sure it is in the right place and you should end up with something like in the pictures. This repair is lightweight and pretty strong and if it breaks again one can just heat it up to correct it. | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
+ | {{: | ||
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+ | ====== Software ====== | ||
+ | ==== The radio reception is bad and/or I get a lot of Too many packages lost messages? ==== | ||
+ | If there are other 2.4GHz devices (WiFi, Bluetooth, etc.) around there might be running on the same channel | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== The radio connection is lost after a couple of meter no matter of the channel or datarate? ==== | ||
+ | There has been at least one case of broken Crazyradio antenna. To check if it is your case test briefly the connection without the Crazyradio antenna installed, if the range is the same then your antenna is certainly damaged (do not try the Crazyradio without antenna for too long!). Try with another antenna (any 2.4GHz Wifi antenna would do). | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== I'm having strange problems with the sensor test not passing/ | ||
+ | Try to flash the latest firmware using the [[doc:crazyflie:client: | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== I upgraded the firmware on the Crazyflie and now it doesn' | ||
+ | If you get errors during the upgrade or you upgrade to your own custom software that has bugs you might not be able to start the firmware. The typical behaviour for this during power on is that the red/gre LEDs blink and then nothing else happens. No sensor test is run (i.e no more blinking LEDs) and you cannot connect with the Crazyradio. | ||
+ | |||
+ | When upgrading the firmware the bootloader cannot be overwritten or modified so you always have the option of going into bootloader mode and upgrading the firmware again. [[doc: | ||
- | ==== The radio reception is really bad ==== | + | ==== I'm having problems entering the bootloader mode ==== |
- | If the linkspeed is set to 2Mbit switch it to 250Kbps. This will normally increase/stabalize | + | Try the following steps: |
+ | - Power off the Crazyflie | ||
+ | - Un-plug and insert the Crazyradio again | ||
+ | - Start the cfclient | ||
+ | - Go to the menu // | ||
+ | - Power on the Crazyflie | ||
+ | - Flash new firmware **without** | ||